When I am in Paris, I love seeking out the intimate, less known jewel. One without the lines or crowds, where you can sit down and relax after a long stretch of walking. On a recent rainy day, I rediscovered the Petit Palais with its wonderful gallery of sculpture, permanent collection of paintings and decorative arts, and interesting temporary exhibition.
INSTALLATION VIEW OF SCULPTURE GALLERY
INNER GARDEN AND CAFE
Just across the street from the more illustrious Grand Palais, this is an urban oasis. There are many places to sit and bask in the beautiful surroundings, including the inner garden and cafe.
Plus, the permanent collection is free!
Walking through the permanent collection, I was mesmerized by the beauty of 8 Courbets, a Cassatt nearly hidden in an alcove, and two paintings by Carolus Duran, whom I know best as the teacher of John Singer Sargent when he was studying in Paris.
PORTRAIT DE MADAME EDGAR STERN, CAROLUS DURAN, 1889
LE BAIN, MARY CASSATT
I also discovered artists, such as Leon Lhermitte with his monumental “Les Halles”. The verve of market life in that historic district is arresting.
LES HALLES, LÉON LHERMITTE, 1895
But probably the nonchalant “Portrait of Sarah Bernhardt” is the most unforgettable. She appears at once confident and mysterious, melting into the sumptuous surroundings. While her sulky, staring gaze draws me in, my eyes travel slowly down the windy path of her gown. Finally her dog appears, connected to her as one curvy shape, peering coyly and expectantly. And not allowing me to leave the picture.
ALL PHOTOS MY OWN